Bluethroat cycling route

In 1976, part of the Dender was straightened for navigation. Since then, the river has flowed into the Scheldt a long way outside Dendermonde. The Oude Dender, however, is still an idyllic body of water that connects the heart of the city to its green outskirts. We follow the bank along the historic Grote Markt, with the Belfry and the Court of First Instance as eye-catchers, and, of course, numerous catering establishments already rolling out the red carpet before or after our bike ride. Just off the route, but also worth a visit, is the St Alexius Beguine Court, which, like the belfry and the Ros Beiaardommegang, has been recognised as a Unesco World Heritage Site. We leave the Dendermonde along the Brussels Forts: the five-hectare pond is a remnant of the ramparts and moats that once served to defend the city and today mainly attracts joggers and peace-seekers.

Those wishing to sample the beers of local Steeman Brewery can visit Da Brourij, a cosy cellar café in the heart of Oudegem with a summer terrace. The name is a local corruption of 'The Old Brewery'. After all, the building above the café used to house a brewery, which supplied the cafés in the area with beer. Today, the beer still flows abundantly there, albeit mostly in the glasses of café-goers. In addition to a few perennial favourites, Da Brourij always has a limited selection of speciality beers: ask at the counter.

Restaurant Appelsveer is a culinary oasis in a listed mansion with an orchard full of pure fruit. The green setting on the banks of the Scheldt provides an ideal setting for a smooth lunch or a cosy dinner. Be tempted by the sourdough breads, all kinds of home-grown jams and fruit juices, the home-made limoncello and, above all, the home-made ice cream, for which you can also visit the adjacent ice cream parlour OlliBolli. 

The ferry between Berlare and Appels is said to date back to 1253 and is one of the oldest foot and bicycle ferries in Scheldeland. Near the ferry, a former landfill has served as an energy park since 2013, accounting for 15,000 solar panels on a 13-hectare site. Across the Scheldt, you'll find yourself in the Waterhoek, named after the 1970s film Mira, the filming of which took place near here. 't Veerhuis inn served as the backdrop. The wedding dress that Willeke Van Ammelrooy wore in the film can still be viewed there. The beer menu today contains something for everyone, and the waffles and pancakes there are delicious.

Between Moerzeke and Baasrode, the Maiandros motor ferry safely carries pedestrians and cyclists across every half hour. While waiting, also note the surprising play of small whirlpools in the Scheldt's water. These are caused by the action of the tides on the flow of the river. Baasrode was one tide's sail from Antwerp, so boats reached Baasrode four-and-a-half hours later at the start of high tide in Antwerp.

At this ice cream shop, you can sample 43 flavours of artisanal farmhouse ice cream, some of which are also available in vegan or sugar-free versions.